Switching from a manual press to an automatic one is an exciting step for any screen printer looking to scale up their operations. While an auto press can speed up production significantly, there are some essential adjustments to make when dealing with artwork you’re used to printing manually. Whether it’s about tackling color order or understanding how flash drying works differently on auto, this Deep Dive With Colin will take you through the main points of transitioning a six-screen design to a 10-color automatic press—using a high-school-style design as an example.
WHY GO AUTOMATIC? SPEED AND EFFICIENCY
On a manual press, six screens can be quite time-consuming, and production rates might hover around 50 pieces per hour if your team is really on top of things. But with an auto press, that same design can yield anywhere from 300–800 pieces per hour with the right setup. For a small business looking to grow, these numbers make automation a no-brainer. However, getting that design to look great on an automatic press takes a bit of rethinking.
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KEY ADJUSTMENTS
ADD A HIGHLIGHT WHITE SCREEN
Transitioning your artwork from six to seven screens is essential. You’ll need a highlight white for that final pop since you can’t rely on print-flash-print techniques that work so well on a manual press. This extra white layer helps you achieve that bright, clean look.
RECONFIGURE FLASH AND COLOR ORDER
On an auto, the color order becomes even more critical to prevent colors from smudging or mixing unintentionally. For example, start with a white base, flash it, add a smoothing screen if you have one, then move on to darker colors (dark gray, gold, light gray), and flash again before adding brighter hues like yellow.
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FINE-TUNE THE INK FLOW AND TEMPERATURE
Since auto presses run faster, they need inks to warm up to production temperature, so everything flows smoothly. Ensuring consistent platen and ink temperatures throughout production keeps your prints sharp. A simple temperature gun can help you confirm platen warmth before you start a big run.
OPTIMIZING PRINT ORDER FOR A CRISP, CLEAN LOOK
Let’s break down the print order used in this demo. Here’s a basic overview of the sequence:
- White Base (156 mesh, low cure white ink) with a flash
- Smoothing Screen (optional but helps create a polished look)
- Dark Gray (305 mesh), then Gold (230 mesh), followed by Light Gray (305 mesh), Yellow (230 mesh), and another flash
- Black (230 mesh) to tie elements together, then Highlight White (305 mesh) for final clarity
Each screen’s angle and squeegee durometer were adjusted to optimize ink deposit control. The result? A balanced design that holds its edges and resists fuzzing, even when moving through multiple colors at high speeds.
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HOW TO DEAL WITH COMMON CHALLENGES
INK SPREADING AND FUZZINESS ON BLACK LINES
The black layer often ties the design together but can get tricky when placed right after a flash. A trick here is to “choke” the black screen slightly, leaving a tiny gap that prevents overlap or bleeding.
MANAGING LINT AND FIBER TRAPS
Even with auto setups, lint build-up on the screens can still throw a wrench in the works. Keep a lint roller or brush handy, and clean off the back of your screens regularly, especially after running the White Base.
FLASH TIMING AND TEMPERATURE CONTROL
Flash units on auto presses can be strong, so check your temperature to avoid over-curing the ink. Using low-cure inks for colors that come right after a flash can make the process faster and prevent potential ink smearing.
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SPEED WITHOUT SACRIFICING QUALITY
Switching from a manual to an automatic press isn’t just about speed; it’s about finding that sweet spot between quality and quantity. Each change you make—from adding an extra highlight white screen to adjusting flash temperatures and screen meshes—translates directly into better prints and faster output. And remember, as you gain experience with your auto, these adjustments will start to feel second nature.
